The Klemheist knot or Machard knot is a type of friction hitch that grips the rope when weight is applied,
and is free to move when the weight is released. It is used similarly to a Prusik knot or the Bachmann
knot to ascend or descend a climbing rope. One advantage is that webbing can be used as an alternative
to cord. The Klemheist is easier to slide up than a Prusik.
Used to allow the climber to ascend and descend by moving the hitch in the desired direction.
The knot will grip only in one direction. Klemheist knot can be also used as a static footlock hitch.
In use, strain must be taken only on the hanging end. If the knot slips when load is placed on
the hanging loop, re-tie around the climbing rope another time or two, until there is no slippage.
Holding around the wraps will let you slide the knot up or down.
Klemheist knot, Machard knot
1. Wrap from one end of the loop around the rope three times going from bottom to top.
2. Bring the loop down.
3. The loose end is then threaded through the starting end, and carefully tightened to leave the wraps neat.